Finding the right diamond for a special ring — especially if it’s an engagement ring — requires painstaking research. One of the biggest decisions you can make is the cut of the diamond. Different cuts produce a different level of sparkle, often known as fire. While round-cut diamonds offer the best level of fire, another popular choice with plenty of sparkle is the cushion-cut diamond. With hundreds of years of history including some of the most famous diamonds in the world, it’s no wonder cushion-cut gems continue to captivate us to this day. Read our guide to everything you need to know about cushion-cut diamonds.
What Is a Cushion-Cut Diamond?
A cushion-cut diamond has a square or rectangular shape, reminiscent of a pillow or cushion. While it often has softly rounded edges or corners, it doesn’t have the fully circular shape of the well-known round diamond shape. However, it can offer some fantastic fire, similar to the level of a round-cut or princess-cut diamond. Let’s get technical for a second: cushion-cut diamonds usually have 58 facets, which means the flat planes that reflect and refract light. But sometimes, these gems are cut to have up to 64 facets.
Caption: Here you can see the many beautiful facets that make up a cushion-cut diamond.
Where the diamond has been deliberately cut to increase the number of facets, it’s often called “cushion cut brilliant,” or similar. “Crushed ice” is another option for cushion cuts and highlights that this diamond has a modified cut for additional brilliance. If you see this on a diamond ring description, you know you’ll be giving the gift of some serious sparkle.
Key Features of Cushion-Cut Diamonds
- Retains more color than many other types of diamonds. A near-colorless H color is achievable with this stunning diamond.
- Offers a “vintage” or “antique” look while maintaining a brilliant cut style.
- Cheaper than round cut diamonds. A one-carat cushion-cut diamond costs has an average price of $2,997 versus the $4,041 you’ll pay for a one-carat round diamond.
The Drawbacks of Cushion-Cut Diamonds
- Retains more color than many other types of diamonds. You’ll need a H grade or better to get the colorless look.
- It’s easier to see imperfections a cushion-cut diamond because of its open table.
- Terminology is a problem. You’ll often seen cushion-cut diamonds referred to as “chunky cushion,” “modified cushion,” or “classic cushion,” which creates confusion.
Cushion-cuts are popular because they have just as many facets as a round-cut or princess-cut diamond, so can offer almost as much sparkle. They’re also known for often having a purer color. Round-cut and princess-cut diamonds may use added brilliance to mask the fact that the color is not as consistent as expected. Because cushion-cut diamonds tend to have just a little less sparkle, they can’t mask an inconsistent gem coloring very well. Gem cutters will, therefore, tend to choose stones that have the same color throughout.
Oval-cut diamonds may be larger than cushion-cut diamonds in the same price range. However, they won’t have the same level of sparkle.
Radiant-cut diamonds can appear very similar to cushion-cut gems. However, radiant-cut stones nearly always have eight well-defined, straight edges which mark them as thoroughly modern. In contrast, cushion-cut diamonds can have rounded edges and may be either square or rectangular, giving them that much sought-after vintage look and feel. Even newer cushion-cut stones follow this style, for a softer styling that evokes nostalgia.
Take a look at this quick comparison table of cushion cuts versus other popular diamond cuts.
Characteristics to Look Out For
The chunky or antique cushion-cut stone will have noticeable facets that catch the light without disrupting the elegant shape of the stone. Look for stones that have table and depth percentages between 61 and 67%. That range gives you the brilliance you want from your cushion-cut diamond without sacrificing fire and dispersion.
On the color side of things, go for diamonds that have color grades of H or above. Cushion-cuts that fall into the I-to-J range often trap color, giving the diamond a yellowish appearance. Remember – H or higher for a clean look. Be aware of the larger table of these types of diamonds, too. That table makes it easier to see inclusions when the diamond is under a microscope. It’s best to go for “eye clean” ahead of microscope clean with a cushion-cut.
Clarity grades don’t matter as much with these diamonds as long as they look clear to the eye. That’s because cushion-cut diamonds are designed to be brilliant and highlight the fire within. Expertly cut cushion-cuts can show more fire than some round-cut diamonds, so look out for stones with excellent dispersion — the technical term for that fire all diamond shoppers are hunting for.
The History of the Cushion-Cut Diamond
Modern cushion-cuts are a descendant of the “old mine” cut. This was a square or rectangular cut with rounded edges used to take advantage of the shape of diamonds from mines in Brazil in the 1700s. The old mine cut helped make the diamonds brilliant without losing too much of the gem in the process. The technology at the time did not allow gem cutters to create the round cuts of today. So, these square or rectangular cuts were the best way to show off the innate qualities of the diamond.
Caption: This diagram shows an example of the old mine cut. The culet (B) at the base of the diamond is one of the biggest differences between this and the cushion cut, as gem cutters can now use advanced cutting techniques to bring this to a point instead. The table facet (A) is often larger on modern cushion cuts.
The round-cut gem overtook the cushion-cut diamond in popularity in the 20th century. Once the technology evolved to allow gem cutters to create a round diamond with superior sparkle, other cuts fell out of favor for a while. However, cushion-cut diamonds and vintage old mine cut stones are having a resurgence as buyers realize they’re often stunning pieces in their own right.
Famous Cushion-Cut Diamonds
Did you know that the Hope Diamond is a cushion-cut gem? It most likely did not start off that way. The stone was first mined in India in the 1600s, but stolen and recut in the late 1700s — by which time, the cushion-cut was very popular.
There are also some fantastic examples of cushion-cut diamonds in the Napoleon Necklace. While the pendant gems are pear-shaped and oval, the main ring of diamonds that hangs close to the neck is packed with 28 old mine-cut diamonds. The overall weight of the stones is a jaw-dropping 263 carats.
Cushion-Cut Diamonds Today
Old mine-cut diamonds may have been limited by the technology of the day, but in the here and now, gem cutters use modern techniques to mimic these antique styles. We’re also lucky enough to still have plenty of the originals available, in the shape of genuine vintage engagement rings with stunning cushion-cut stones.
Plenty of celebrities opt for cushion-cut diamonds to propose to their significant others. Kim Kardashian West famously received a cushion-cut diamond engagement ring from Kanye. The 15-carat stone was huge, D-colored (essentially colorless), and flawless. It’s estimated that this striking ring is worth around $2 million.
Actor and filmmaker Zoe Kravitz is another celebrity toting an impressive cushion-cut diamond on their ring finger. Fiancé Channing Tatum popped the question with an elongated cushion-cut stone in a vintage-style gold bezel setting. Experts suggest that the ring is worth over half a million dollars.
Modern Family star Sofia Vergara wore a 7-carat cushion-cut diamond with a halo of smaller diamonds from then-fiancé Joe Manganiello — the couple have now split. The ring is worth a reported $500,000.
Why Is the Cushion-Cut Diamond So Popular?
With everyone from big stars to buyers just like you opting for the cushion-cut style over more conventional or modern cuts, it begs the question: What’s the big deal? Part of the sudden resurgence of these stunning stones is that vintage and antique styles are back in a big way. From deadstock sunglasses to repurposed vintage accessories, fashionistas from all walks of life are finding ways to bring the styles of the past firmly into the present.
Another reason these stones are rising in popularity is that people are realizing that they can get a very sparkly diamond for a slightly lower price tag. Round-cut diamonds are still more expensive (in general) than equivalent carat-weight cushion-cut diamonds. Like its old mine predecessor, the cushion-cut is generally crafted with less waste, meaning it can often be sold for a little less.
Finally, it’s worth remembering that this cut is designed to show off the fire of the diamond. Gem cutters of the 18th and 19th centuries would use this cut to bring the rough diamonds of Brazil to life. Today, that cut is just as brilliant as ever, with gem cutters cleverly adjusting the planes and depth of facets to draw out every last sparkle.
Choosing a Cushion-Cut Diamond
When you decide to opt for a cushion-cut diamond, there are several factors to consider.
Diamond Setting
You can get a ring with a standalone stone, or you can get one set within a halo of other stones. This is a popular design, with either one or multiple rings of smaller diamonds or other stones like sapphires surrounding the central gem. The multiple gems can add even more sparkle to the ring; ideal for an engagement symbol.
Vintage vs. Modern: Old Mine or Cushion-Cut
When looking at vintage stones, you’re likely to find that the old mine-cut diamonds have a smaller table facet — that’s the larger flat area on the top of the stone. Because of advanced cutting techniques, gem cutters can now create a larger table facet with smaller facets surrounding it. Similarly, modern cushion-cut stones tend to have lower crowns and shallower pavilions. These modern cushion-cut stones are often called “modified” cushion cuts. They have an additional row of facets below the girdle, but there’s little difference in terms of performance range – both vintage and modern cushion cuts can range from Excellent to Poor.
Many buyers deliberately opt for a vintage cushion-cut or old mine-cut stone to gain the antique styling of a deeper pavilion or higher crown — a big stone that makes a bold statement. If you find diamonds with these characteristics, you may have a genuine antique on your hands.
Diamond Clarity
Diamond clarity can be a challenge a cushion cut, with a general recommendation being to look for diamonds that look clean to your eye. Inclusions can be hidden by a cushion-cut diamond that has the crushed ice look. Ideally, inclusions should only be in the corner of these types of cushion cuts, allowing the crushed ice look to mask them from view.
However, it’s the cushion-cut diamond’s open table that’s your biggest challenge here. You don’t have to opt for flawless diamonds — in fact, these are very rare. VS1 and VS2 (very slightly included) are usually considered “eye clear” and perfectly beautiful for an engagement ring. Many antique cushion-cut rings are rated VS1/VS2 and retain their original sparkle perfectly.
Color and Carat
As with all diamond rings, carefully consider the color, clarity, and weight before you buy. Clear diamonds will be graded D, E, or F, but anything from G to J is also practically colorless. You may also find cushion-cut diamonds in a range of stunning colors, from pinks to blues.
Weight is measured in carats and should be determined by your budget and personal taste. Generally, the bigger the stone, the higher the carat weight. Some stones are cut to appear larger while costing less. Cushion-cut diamonds are often a good choice if you’re looking for value, as the large table facet creates the impression of size.
Length-to-Width Ratio
Brilliant cushion cuts vary from square to rectangular, making your choice one of personal taste in many respects. Square cuts are more popular. Look for a length-to-width ratio as close to 1:1 as possible for these cuts, with the specific cut being between 1.00 and 1.05. If you prefer a rectangular cut, a ratio of 1.2:1 or 1.3:1 provides a nice balance between width and height. Avoid cuts with ratios of 1.06:1 through to 1.1:1. They are awkward in the sense that they’re not quite square but also don’t look fully rectangular.
Ideal Proportions for a Cushion-Cut Diamond
Cushion-cut diamonds often don’t receive a cut grade from the Gemological Institute of America, making it difficult to choose the best stone. Look for specific proportions, with the following table helping you to make your choice:
How to Care for Your Cushion-Cut Diamond Jewelry
If you’ve opted for an antique diamond ring, you know that this piece of jewelry has already stood the test of time. You can ensure that it lasts for many more years to come by following these simple care tips.
Daily Protection
If you work in an environment where you have to use strong sanitizers or abrasive cleaners, take your ring off and put it somewhere safe. These types of chemicals could dull the metal of your ring or even permanently damage it. Take your ring off and place it somewhere safe when cleaning, swimming in chlorinated water, or handling hazardous chemicals. Alternatively, wear gloves when dealing with harsh substances.
Storing Diamond Jewelry
Ideally, each of your pieces of diamond jewelry should have its own case. These cases should be lined with a soft material and should close fully to prevent dust from gathering on the ring setting. A jewelry box is okay, however, you should always keep your diamonds away from other gems, particularly other diamonds. After all, what’s the only thing that can truly damage a diamond? That’s right — it’s another diamond. As beautiful as they are, diamonds are a lot like people — they need their personal space.
Regular Cleaning
Use mild dish soap if you decide to clean your diamond. Always avoid harsh or astringent chemicals as these can damage the ring setting and, in some cases, even the stone itself. If there are noticeable marks or dirt caught in the setting, use a soft-bristled toothbrush or any small brush with a similar texture. Gently move the bristles around the ring to remove dirt from around the stone and metal of the ring. Once your ring is clean, rinse it thoroughly with cool, clean water and pat dry.
Top tip: Gather your water and materials and move away from the sink to prevent disasters like losing a ring down the drain. You can also get your rings professionally cleaned by a jeweler.
Contact an Expert on Cushion-Cut Diamonds
Do you need a cushion-cut diamond for an engagement ring, gift, or piece of statement jewelry? The experts here at Estate Diamond Jewelry are on hand to guide you through the selection process. We can help you explore exquisite, genuinely vintage pieces like the Glenridge Ring or the sapphire-haloed Mosley Ring.
Contact us today to find out how we can assist you.
